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2024 Dec 14-20: Buenos Aires

  • dougbergh
  • Dec 21, 2025
  • 2 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

The cover quote says “someone said I left my neighborhood, but when? When I’m always arriving”


Dec 14 -


Gathering storm from the roof, kinda petered out to another nice day:




Spent a while in the Museo de Belles Artes. Through Plaza Francia & Plaza Intendente Alvear on the way:




Lots of art:




Outside the UK embassy:




Dec 15 - Plaza Vicente López y Planes:




A Peugeot:




Dec 16 -


Mid day around about Recoleta - Plaza Intende re Alvear, Plaza San Martin de Tours, August’s La Caprichoca Parrilla (excellent; he can pick ‘em):




Evening, our neighborhood - Palermo Hollywood:




Dec 17 - Tigre, an old village on the river delta that’s been swallowed by Burnos Aires:




Evening in our ‘hood. New ritual - happy hour at La Piccola:




Dec 18 -


AM walked around Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur:




PM San Telmo.


San Telmo Market (lunch at the French bistro with the air conditioned room):




The surrounding neighborhood:




Passed by Plaza Dorrego, stopped in for a beer while a band was playing Beatles covers:



Then this happened:




On from there; we’d been hearing what sounded like explosions for a while, walked toward Plaza de Mayo to see. Turns out there was a big, day-long protest of Millei’s new labor policy that’d just been published:







Dec 19 - Recoleta & Retiro


We saw online that there’d be a concert in the Salón Dorado of the Teatro Colón, but it was not possible to buy tickets online, so we headed there to see. Success - tickets procured for a 5:30 performance. More later. That put us between Recoleta and Retiro, and Cyrus had recommended Peruvian restaurant La Cocina de Yovita near there, so we kicked around.


This is Cafe Coronado. Interesting old library, good coffee:




Lunch at Yovita was excellent, among our best. Walked all around waiting for the 5:30 show; happened into the shopping district around Florida Street and Gallerias Pacifico - to be avoided. On the plus side, coolest sights at Plaza San Martin:




OK the main event was the Teatro Colón performance - two members of the house orchestra, one on piano & the other on contra bass, playing Argentinian tango music. Music was nice but we were there for the building. Spectacular:





Bus back to our neighborhood, happy hour at La Piccola:




Dec 20 -


In Argentine Spanish, ‘V’ is prounounced like ‘B’:




Near us is a new-ish outdoor shopping mall bttween a railroad track and an old brick warehouse - ‘Distrito Arcos Premium Outlets’. Seems like a lot of American brands. We’ve been curios, had a stroll through:




Then back to our direct neighborhood. A few blocks from our apt, around Plaza Serrano, it’s hoppin’ on a Saturday night:




Went back to Teaology in Paul French w/tea, and the owner Inés Berton was there. Had a nice talk, she grew up in Patagonia and has a house where we’re going next, Punte del Este Uruguay. Got some ideas..


Stopped for a Campari at Perro Verde on Calle Honduras. Nice. Guy told me they’d have a DJ at 10 PM. Nope; my bedtime.




That is all.




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