2025 Jan #17: Hampton Court

Special treat today: Leslie is writing the post!

A day at Court

Leaving the train station this oddly-shaped but welcoming tavern was the first thing we noticed. Much too early for a beer, we head to the bus stop to catch a ride to Hampton Court. Upon reaching Kingston (the town that has grown up around the royal grounds), we decide to walk the last mile. Our route led us through the deer park that surrounds Hampton Court, home to descendants of Henry VIII’s herd. We shared the paths with runners and families out on bicycles.

Our first glimpse of the palace. We were warmly welcomed by the charming volunteer on the right. Others were positioned throughout the property to answer questions and offer assistance (more on that later) - some even in period costumes!

England’s kings and queens used Hampton Court as a pleasure palace for 500 years before Queen Victoria opened it to the public in 1838. It started out early 16th century as a country estate which Cardinal  Wolsey (Henry’s chief religious advisor at the time) purchased and renovated to entertain the king and his court and other visiting royalty. His renovation was so successful, that Henry took it for himself!

Over time, Henry VIII brought all six of his wives to HC. Stories are told of ghosts: one appears in the room of his third wife (Jane Seymour) on her death day each year (she died giving birth to Henry’s only male heir) and another haunts the passageway where his fifth wife (Catherine Howard) ran screaming to beg Henry’s forgiveness after being accused of adultery. He ordered her execution. (Not so tolerant this one; a single-minded focus on begetting another male heir to continue the Tudor line. (His older brother who was in line to be king died early of typhoid: Henry was the spare)

60 acres of formal gardens surround the buildings. This current rose garden used to be the palace’s kitchen garden. Among others are the Great Fountain garden, a knot garden, an orangery garden and terrace and pond garden.

Roles were clearly defined and strictly managed throughout the palace. They had to be - the kitchen staff were responsible for procuring food enough to prepare 2 meals a day for up to 800 courtiers who accompanied Henry! The quality and variety of food you were given at HC depended on your status at court. Those at the king’s table ate best, of course.

The palace is organized around 2 courtyards. Around the first courtyard, there are 30 suites for visiting monarchs and the most important courtiers. Others are tucked away in other areas. The second courtyard is graced by this beautiful clock tower. It’s rooms include The hall used for dining and other gatherings, the king’s private rooms, the queen’s apartment, the so-called “listening room” where courtiers gathered to vie for the king’s attention and a processional gallery that leads to the royal chapel.

After all the time spent admiring the rooms, artwork and furnishings of the palace and deciding the political rigors and gamesmanship of a courtly life were not for us, we were relieved to find the doors to the gardens and paths leading down to the river. HC is built on the banks of the Thames and the royal court generally arrived on the king’s barges allowing the party to begin before they arrived. We sat down on the stone wall to pose for a selfie with the palace behind us before leaving. A short way down the path I realized my phone was missing. Luckily I remembered the last photo I had taken. We quickly scouted the area, didn’t see anything and decided it must have fallen our of my pocket when we were sitting on the wall. Looking over the edge, we saw a patch of ivy right below the spot. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get to it. Off we went to Security. Matthew and Colin, were on board to help us. First Colin drove out to the spot we described to have a look. We had a strong suspicion he wasn’t quite clear on our directions. When he came back empty handed, Matthew called another guard to cover for him and he took us on a wonderful shortcut through the palace to reach the area we had in mind. Alas, none of the keys he had brought with him opened the gate. One more trip for him back to his supervisor for the right key and, voila, we were in and the phone was there! Did I mention this was my brand new phone?! Whew. Crisis averted thanks to the determination of the wonderful staff at Hampton Court.